On January 21, 1985, Polish mountaineers Andrzej Czok and Jerzy Kukuczka achieved a groundbreaking feat by becoming the first people ever to summit Dhaulagiri (8,167 meters) in winter. This marked the third-ever winter ascent of an 8,000-meter peak in history, continuing Poland’s remarkable dominance in high-altitude winter climbing. At the time, this achievement further solidified Poland’s place at the forefront of mountaineering in the most extreme conditions on Earth.
The Polish Trailblazers
Poland’s record in winter climbing was already formidable. Just five years prior, on February 17, 1980, Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy became the first climbers to summit Mount Everest (8,850 meters) in winter. This was followed by Maciej Berbeka and Ryszard Gajewski, who successfully climbed Manaslu (8,156 meters) on January 12, 1984. These early triumphs were a harbinger of the Polish mountaineering revolution that would continue through the 1980s, with climbers like Kukuczka leading the charge.
The Dhaulagiri Ascent
The journey to Dhaulagiri’s summit began in the bitter cold on January 20, 1985, when Kukuczka, Czok, and Mirosław Kuraś set up camp at 7,000 meters on a narrow ice platform. During the night, disaster struck as an avalanche hit their tent, forcing Kuraś to retreat to a lower camp. Despite frostbite setting in on their fingers, Kukuczka and Czok pushed forward with determination, eventually reaching the summit of Dhaulagiri at around 3:30 p.m. on January 21.
The Harsh Descent
The descent was equally perilous. Czok’s frostbite worsened, and he was urgently evacuated for medical treatment, where part of his fingers had to be amputated. Despite this, Kukuczka continued his journey and joined another Polish team to climb Cho Oyu (8,201 meters), where they achieved yet another winter first on February 15, 1985. This marked Poland’s fourth winter ascent of an 8,000-meter peak in a short span of five years.
Poland’s Dominance in the 1980s
The climb of Dhaulagiri was not just a personal triumph for Kukuczka and Czok; it was a significant step in Poland’s winter climbing legacy. Between 1980 and 1988, Polish climbers accomplished the first winter ascents of seven 8,000-meter peaks, a record that still stands today with nine total first winter summits. This golden era of Polish mountaineering is considered unmatched in the history of high-altitude exploration.
The Ongoing Legacy
Poland’s extraordinary winter climbing achievements still echo today. With only three peaks—Makalu, Gasherbrum II, and Nanga Parbat—left to be summited in winter by climbers from other countries, the Polish legacy remains intact. As we mark the 40th anniversary of the Dhaulagiri ascent, we remember the courage, skill, and determination of climbers like Kukuczka and Czok, whose efforts have shaped the history of mountaineering in some of the harshest environments known to man.