The 1980s and 1990s marked Poland’s Golden Age of mountaineering, a time when climbers from a nation under communist rule ascended to the world’s highest peaks. Among these fearless adventurers was Wanda Rutkiewicz, a name synonymous with ambition and resilience. She was the first Polish person to climb Mount Everest and the first woman to summit K2. Despite immense personal struggles, Wanda embodied an unwavering determination to conquer not only mountains but also societal expectations.
A Climber’s Individualistic Pursuit
Wanda’s climbing career was both a rebellion against and a product of her era. The communist government, while paradoxically supporting the individualistic sport, saw climbers’ achievements as tools for national pride. Wanda, however, resisted any notion of collectivism. Her independence shone through, leading all-female expeditions and carving a unique path in a male-dominated field. Her relentless spirit inspired climbers worldwide but often left her isolated.
Tragically, Wanda’s passion for climbing led to her disappearance on Kangchenjunga in 1992, during her ambitious “Caravan of Dreams” project. Her death marked the decline of Poland’s Golden Age of mountaineering. Yet her legacy persists, a testament to courage and ambition.
From Wanda Rutkiewicz to Wojtek Kurtyka: A Tribute to Polish Mountaineering
From Poland to Everest, In cima a sé stessi presents 20 short stories celebrating great mountaineers in a new book by Italian journalist Antonio Panei, featuring illustrations by designer Veronica Cristofoletti.
Polish mountaineering takes center stage in the latest literary work by Italian journalist and writer Antonio Panei. Published by La Bussola in Rome, In cima a sé stessi explores the extraordinary achievements of legends like Wanda Rutkiewicz, Wojtek Kurtyka, and the triumphant Polish expedition to Everest in 1980. Architect and graphic designer Veronica Cristofoletti provides evocative illustrations of these iconic figures.
The book delves into the life and mysterious disappearance of the legendary Polish mountaineer Wanda Rutkiewicz in the Himalayas. It also recounts the hallucinations experienced by Piolet d’Or winner Wojtek Kurtyka during his historic ascent of the “Shining Wall.” A significant portion of the narrative is dedicated to one of mountaineering’s greatest milestones: the first winter ascent of Everest in 1980 by Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy.
Panei, the grandson of Italian mountaineer Gigi Panei—who climbed alongside Walter Bonatti and perished in an avalanche in Courmayeur in 1967—brings a personal connection to the world of climbing. Alongside the stories of Poland’s most remarkable mountaineers, the book also chronicles the adventures of other iconic figures such as Reinhold Messner, Naomi Uemura, Alison Hargreaves, and Riccardo Cassin.