Today, we look back on one of the most iconic and bittersweet moments in mountaineering history. On January 11, 1986, Polish climbers Jerzy Kukuczka and Krzysztof Wielicki made history as the first to conquer Kangchenjunga in winter. At 8,586 meters, the mountain is the third highest in the world and among the most technically demanding. But this historic climb came at a heartbreaking cost—the death of their teammate Andrzej Czok from altitude sickness.
An Ambitious Expedition in Brutal Conditions
The winter expedition to Kangchenjunga was organized by the Gliwice Mountaineering Club, led by Andrzej Machnik. Starting in December 1985, the team faced the punishing conditions of the Himalayas during the coldest season. Their goal? To achieve the first winter ascent of this massive and unforgiving peak.
The climbers established a base camp at 4,560 meters and began the painstaking process of acclimatization, fixing ropes, and setting up higher camps. Early attempts to summit were thwarted by violent weather, forcing the team to regroup and make another attempt. It was a test of resilience, both physically and mentally.
Reaching the Summit Without Oxygen
On January 11, Jerzy Kukuczka and Krzysztof Wielicki set out from Camp Four, located at 7,800 meters. With every step, the conditions became more treacherous—biting winds, frigid temperatures, and dangerously thin air. Yet, after hours of relentless effort, the duo reached the summit of Kangchenjunga.
Their accomplishment was extraordinary—not only because it was the first winter ascent of the peak but because they did it without supplemental oxygen. This feat cemented their legacy in the annals of mountaineering. Wielicki, one of the greatest winter climbers in history, would go on to summit Everest and Lhotse in winter, while Kukuczka became the second person ever to conquer all 14 of the world’s highest mountains.
A Tragic Loss on the Mountain
While Kukuczka and Wielicki stood on the summit, tragedy unfolded below. Andrzej Czok, a highly experienced climber, began showing signs of altitude sickness at Camp Three, including severe coughing and weakness. Despite this, he continued to ascend but eventually became too ill to go on.
Przemek Piasecki, Czok’s partner, made the difficult decision to descend alone to seek help, as the team’s only radio was with Kukuczka and Wielicki. Czok was left in a tent, unable to move. Sadly, he died that night, and his body was later buried in a glacier crevasse near Camp Three—a stark reminder of how unforgiving the mountains can be.
Polish Legacy on Kangchenjunga
The 1986 expedition was just one chapter in the remarkable history of Polish climbers on Kangchenjunga. In 1978, they were the first to summit the mountain’s South and Central peaks. Later, Piotr Pustelnik (2001) and Kinga Baranowska (2009) followed in their footsteps, with Baranowska becoming the first Polish woman to summit Kangchenjunga.